Apr 23

French Polynesia, Take 2

by in Sailing journal

Phoenix sails again. We leave the spectacular anchorage of Ua Pou. The next destination is the island of Tahiti. We have to cover over 700 miles to reach there.

The first day of sailing the skies were mostly cloudy. Wind strengthened to 25-30 knots, the waves reached 1.5-2 meters. The menu was a classic roast chicken with mashed potatoes. Do not ask me how many carbs and fat we eat, just know that is becoming visible. The second day, the sky was free of clouds, the wind weak in its intensity. It was a beautiful day of sailing. We prepared chinese-style chicken. In these islands we haven’t been able to supply with vegetables, so our food comes from cans. However, we have plenty of fruit: banana, papaya, mango, oranges.

Next day was another windy and rainy day, so the captained used the opportunity to practice. I varied our food with spinach for the lunch-dinner meal. The day after remained memorable only because I dropped a big fish. For dinner we had baked beans and pork beans, all canned. On the fifth day we passed two atolls: to the port Arutua Atoll, and to the starbord, the Rangiroa Atoll. We were lucky and were able to catch a big bream of over a meter in length.

It’s not easy to clean a fish that big. Operations were conducted in the cockpit. First separate the head and tail, then cut it into three pieces. I completed cleaning of fish in the kitchen sink, the only one in the boat. At dinner we enjoyed fried sea bream with lemon. As we near Tahiti, the wind gradually weakens in intensity. In the penultimate day of sailing the entire crew participated in raising the spinnaker. Should I talk about the menu? For breakfast we had fish salad. At dinner I prepared fish with tomato sauce in the oven. We arrived in Papeete, Tahiti island on a Saturday morning. I contacted the Port Authority radio. At seven o’clock we entered the passage Papeete, framed by a container ship at the bow, and a cargo ship at the stern. Papeete is Tahiti island’s capital and also the political capital, administrative, economic and cultural development of French Polynesia. We enter the bay and tie the boat to a dam that is located near a park. As we were relieved after the completion of a new passage, an officer of the harbour comes and tells us that we must go to the dock in the marina, where we pay the same price as at the pier, but we have the advantage of being able to find water. We find out, however, that we do not get to have the keys to the marina because the office is closed until Tuesday. Besides the fact that it is the weekend, Monday is a national holiday. After we settled on navy pier, I did a little cleaning up and then went to visit the city. Been a while since I sat in a city. Noise, traffic, congestion, surprise us every time. Papeete is a city with a population of over one hundred thousand inhabitants. When they add thousands of French citizens who come either to visit or to work. For two hundred miles of road that cross the island are registered over 35 thousand cars. Big crowd! First stop is, as usual, to post messages to verify the Internet. We then turned to the two sights of great interest that we do not miss anywhere: supermarket marketplace. I bought from Carrefour sticks, several types of cheese and pate `(?), Ham, butter, goodies! Marius called Axel Licht friend of Ua Huka. Axel enjoyed our arrival and invited us to his home the next day at noon. Sunday morning I started with an absolutely necessary administrative program after each traversada: washing laundry. Marius was busy supply. At 15 o’clock we met with Axel we took the car and took us home. Licht family lives in the north of the city. Their house is situated in a valley at the base of a mountain about two thousand feet. The surrounding scenery is spectacular forest, vertical cliffs, a paradise! I met the rest of the family: his wife, his mother and a friend Axel Asian origin. We brought in but our hosts: an album Delta, some Romanian music CDs, chocolate and a bottle of Argentine wine. Marius attend the first lesson preparation coconut milk. Coconut is broken clean in two. Grate the white part with grated special Polynesian invention. Shaving core is then drained through a gauze. I noticed that the coconut milk preparation handle men. It takes some force. The menu was very rich, varied and the service was exceptional. There were many kinds of raw fish salads, traditional “poisson crue” served throughout Polynesia The main course was lamb with various baked potatoes. For dessert we had coffee and ice cream. The presentation was worthy of a desert with a star Michellin restaurant. La siesta I watched a documentary film by Axel. It was then I learned that he works at the local TV station as cinematographer. I went loaded with fruit picked from the garden near the house: papaya, mango, grapefruit huge. It was a fantastic day! We had a wonderful time with our hosts welcoming. The next day I went to Axel with a large car supermarket located ten miles away. I made a more serious supply for the next traversada. Rest of the day I spent on the boat. I reorganized things forward, we distributed food, filled the tank with water. Marius boat washing. He had not been cleaned in Panama. Last day of stay in Papeete was marked by the arrival of the vessel in port country. We met the ship and crew to the island of Ua Pou. Local authorities, television, print, dance, locals gathered to welcome the young and old research vessel. Were we present at the event. The crew was received with great pomp. There were speeches and was allowed to visit the boat. Chief officer introduced us to the bowl. Head of laboratory microscopy gave us an interview. There was for us a race against time. We went to the Harbour to make the boat out but forgot acts. We returned to the boat, I took the papers and after an hour we managed to make the exit. We returned to the boat and we untied from the dock. We traveled 15 miles to the next island, Moorea. After calculations I spent the night as we get on. I admit I’m not overly excited about entering the anchorage at night. Marius linistete me telling me that the entrance is well signposted. And he’s absolutely right. We enter the dark Cook anchorage. We anchor leaving ten feet of chain. From what we can distinguish the bathroom is surrounded by mountains. We eat anything, drink a glass of red wine and ended the evening. The next day I was rewarded by a wonderful landscape. Sharp mountains covered with greenery, a beautiful beach and an attractive anchorage as possible we have shown the eye. Initially I linger in the boat. Marius conscience would not let sit idle long. Remove the gasoline in the engine and start it Dinghai clean. Then go to the beach and the town of Pao Pao buy five gallons of gasoline. He returned to the boat and clean the carburetor. After mestereste engine starts a new activity: clean boat. Armed with sponges and a brush and clean it up in Dinghai board in port. He made long grass after crossing the Pacific. Meanwhile I prepared dinner: cabbage with pork. We ended the evening watching two movies. The next morning we quickly organized. While I was preparing breakfast Marius clean and starboard. Today we go to the shore. Apratul take photos and room and head to shore. Engine to Dinghai went smoothly. Drawing a concrete pier. Marius is the second time in the town called Pao Pao. Visit the small village and stop at a souvenir shop. Buy an internet card. Outside are exposed numerous pieces of fabric colored with exotic designs. It’s called pareo and can be worn in different ways. Buy myself a pareo. The seller shows me in what way I can wear this piece of clothing. Moving to the other end of town. We take a road that climbs toward a wooded area with pine trees. We find some raspberry bushes and a few strawberries. We return to the boat. We have a good internet connection. Marius send pictures and material for the site. I prepare a chicken soup. Ended the evening watching two movies. The next morning Marius go ashore and buy some bagels. In another left this anchorage: bath D ‘Opounohu, located just two miles away. Anchor by a reef at a depth of three meters. There are a few boats anchored here. The place is attractive: and azure water is located very close to the beach has fine white sand. Marius is sinking and shooting. We spent a very pleasant evening. Marius morning with a refreshing bath. After breakfast we leave the shore. Dinghai tie to a tree and head in recognition. Was very recognizable to us a Dacia car. We are glad to meet old acquaintances. We’re on a very scenic road that borders the narrows bay. Deep inside we see a sailboat in Anchor Bay. It’s a beautiful place. In a parking lot meet another acquaintance: Dacia Duster. We return to the boat and spend a few hours doing sunbathe. Afternoon sail and go on. The next destination is the island of Huahine located 75 miles away. The next morning we get the right island. Iconjurata Island is a coral reef. We enter through a passage between reefs and island and sailing. Fare anchored in the locality. Anchorage is crowded. Instead of a sailboat anchored just set sail. We spent the day on the boat. Marius engine carburetor cleaned again in Dinghai. At dinner we had roast chicken. The next day at 5.30 am, we weighed anchor and left the anchorage. Powered till two in the afternoon we reach Tearanui passage that marks the entrance to the lagoon island of Bora Bora. Bora Bora island is of volcanic origin. Due to erosion, the peaks that exceed 1200m altitude remained only two peaks that are over six hundred meters Otemanu and Pahia. The two peaks spectacular azure waters inside the lagoon make Bora Bora the most spectacular destination in the Pacific.

Anchor not far from the entrance, next to a small and stylish island Tapu. There are two sailing boats anchored one and one German flag French flag. The water is incredibly clear azure. We can clearly see the six meter anchor and chain.

I made a brief foray on the island. Tapu Island Apatin actually a resort. The owners arranged for a romantic dinner. We find a small kiosk with a table, chairs and everything needed for whom: cutlery, glasses, etc.. Wine and other sailing crews. Discussed with the German brig Mango. We returned to the boat, we prepared a chinezarie and we ended the evening with two films. The next morning I took exceptionally beautiful location I photographed and filmed. Marius sank and took pictures.

After a few hours we sail and we went to the north of the island, the most beautiful. We anchored quite close to one of the many luxury resorts on the island. Nearby are anchored two yacturi, Mango and Extrapoles.

The landscape is incredibly beautiful. You can see two mountain peaks covered with greenery. The contrast with the azure water is phenomenal. Since I do not know how to describe the color of the water, I called it Blue Bora Bora. Not get enough to admire this place. I dreamed for years to Bora Bora. Marius had done my “big head” with the beauty of this island. He was absolutely right.

We dined in the cockpit: green bean dish with meat, all canned. Although it was a romantic menu was a special dinner by the location. The next day at noon on Mango crew informed us that the weather will change, the wind will strengthen. We decide to move more inside the lagoon. By doing anchorage two miles. Anchored in the south-east of the island bulls, in two feet of water azure. I took pictures in difficult was “illegal play” like Claudia Szabo says.


I had a Romanian dinner, polenta with cheese and fried eggs. The day I sat in the boat. The rain and wind beat. Only the next day afternoon I managed to make a trip to the shore. Mosquitoes beleaguered us. Everywhere were private property. That is cosecinta tourism.

In the morning the next day we decided to leave the anchorage. The water was muddy good time are needed. We sailed through coral good beacons, we exceeded the narrow passages we stopped in the south of the island slut, behind a reef. The next day was one of relaxation. Time was improved, the water was clarified.

The day after we went to Bora Bora Yacht Club and we tied to a buoy. There followed two days of scurry: I did enter and then exit from French Polynesia.




We did a good supply for the next passage. I met a good friend of Axel Licht working at a desk in Bora Bora. I bought several souvenirs for the home. I can say with hand on heart that, for me, Bora Bora vacation dreams.

We are preparing for a new destination.

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