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iulie 17, 2010

Vulcanul Pico – De la mare la munte

 

Am parasit insula Flores si ne-am indreptat spre urmatoarea destinatie, insula Faial. De cum am intrat cu Phoenix pe canalul dintre insulele Faial si Pico, marea s-a dezlantuit, aveam vantul din fata de 30 de noduri, cu valuri scurte, inalte si puternice. Vizibilitatea nu era grozava, cerul era acoperit de nori. Desi eram la 5 mile distanta de insula Pico, nu vedeam nimic; banuiam ca dincolo de nori si ceata se afla vulcanul care se ridica de la nivelul marii pana la altitudinea de 2351 de m. Inaintam in volte cu puntea plina de spuma valurilor. Priveam spre Pico din cand in cand, asteptam sa se faca o gaura-n cer ca sa pot vedea vulcanul. Am avut noroc. Pentru cateva minute, printr-o spartura de nori undeva sus, parca prea sus, am vazut varful vulcanului; parea ca pluteste printre norii goniti de vantul puternic. Si atunci un gand, o strangere de inima, o chemare, toate m-au indemnat: vreau sa urc pe Pico! Intr-una din zilele urmatoare, pe cand eram in Horta, m-am trezit intr-o dimineata senina, una din putinele de acest fel din Azore. Am vazut vulcanul in plin soare, semet, imens, fara nici un nor. Mi s-a taiat respiratia. Nu trebuie sa fii alpinist ca sa–ti doresti sa escaladezi un munte. E suficient sa iubesti natura, sa-ti placa sa fii in mijlocul ei, sa o respecti. Cate lucruri frumoase sunt pe lumea asta si cat de putin timp avem ca sa le vedem! Mai trist e ca pierdem o gramada de timp absorbiti de cotidian. Nu mi-a luat mult ca sa ma decid sa urc pe Pico; din momentul in care l-am vazut gandul a venit firesc, imediat. Am programat excursia pentru a doua zi. Dimineata (14.06) la ora 6.30 a sunat ceasul meu care, pe langa 5 alarme are altimetru, barometru si busola; e prea destept si prea insistent. Nu mai sunt invatat sa ma trezesc dupa ceas. In timpul carturilor ma trezesc singur cand vantul se intareste sau isi schimba directia. Ies in cockpit sa vad cum e vremea. Cerul este acoperit de nori, vreme urata de toamna. Nici insula Pico nu arata altfel. Doar baza vulcanului se vede, conul e cu capul in nori. Normal ca-mi piere cheful. Cu doar o zi in urma vremea a fost perfecta, senin toata ziua. Reparatiile la Phoenix sunt prioritate insa, mai intai munca si apoi distractia. Ma uit dezamagit cand la nori cand la patul cald…un dracusor isi vara coada. Pun totusi cafeaua la fiert. Vorba Catalinei: daca vremea nu ne permite sa urcam pe vulcan, macar vizitam insula. Am pregatit bagajul cu o seara inainte. Cu imbracamintea nu am avut probleme; prea mult echipament nu e necesar. O bluza de polar e deajuns. Prost stam cu incaltamintea. Avem pantofi de punte improprii pentru teren. Ne orientam la cizmele de cauciuc captusite cumparate pentru Tara de Foc. Profilul talpii este bun pentru a urca pe teren accidentat, au la o adica 4 ori 4. Ca hrana am luat patru batoane Snickers si niste bomboane. Din barca am luat , ce altceva decat pateuri romanesti, ca doar mergem la munte, nu? Bem cafeaua pe fuga, mancam cate doua oua fierte si o luam repejor spre feri. Nu misca nimeni in marina, suntem singurii care ne-am trezit devreme. La 7.30 am iesit din rada portului. In 40 de minute am ajuns in portul Madalena. Orasul e ca multe alte porturi din Azore. Casele sunt cochete, vopsite in alb. La terminalul pentru feri taxiurile isi asteapta clientii. Un taximetrist de pe un Mercedes ne abordeaza, ne-a vazut echipati. Il refuzam; avem de facut cumparaturi. Bem o cafea la o terasa pana se deschide supermarketul. Cumparam apoi paine si doua sticle de cate doi l de apa. Suntem gata de drum. De data asta cautam noi un taxi. Il gasim pe amicul de pe Mercedes. De altfel nu e singurul cu asa masina. In toate insulele am vazut brandul asta la taxiuri. Il intrebam asa, de control, cat ne costa drumul pana la vulcan. Stiam de la niste navigatori germani cat e pretul: 20 de euro pentru 20 de km. Urcam in masina confortabila si plecam. Drumul spre vulcan strabate intai o zona cultivata cu vita-de-vie. Urmeaza zona subalpina cu paduri de pini si molizi. Ajungem apoi la zona alpina cu pajisti bine intretinute, imprejmuite, pe care pasc turme de vaci. Oamenii muncesc din greu aici, este admirabil efortul pe care-l depun pentru a supravietui pe aceste insule. Un lucru e sigur: oricat ar fi criza de serioasa, azorenii nu vor muri de foame. Ei traiesc simplu, fara figuri. Cei de la oras au masini de litraj mic, usor de parcat. Fermierii au masini de teren necesare pentru carat. E exact pe dos fata de noi, romani fitosi. Am ajuns cu taxiul pana la altitudinea de 1200 m. Aici se termina si asfaltul, impecabil de altfel. Amabil, soferul ne face o schita cu drumul pe care trebuie sa-l urmam. A fost si el pe vulcan de 5 ori. Am luat si numarul lui de mobil; la coborare vine sa ne recupereze. Taxiul pleaca iar noi ramanem sa ne echipam. Ne-am incaltat cu cizmele, am pus cumparaturile in rucsaci si am pornit la drum. Intre timp a mai aparut o pereche de montaniarzi. Au venit cu o masina inchiriata. La ora 9.15 incepem urcusul. Vremea este superba fata de cum era in oras. Plafonul de nori este mai jos la circa 200 de m altitudine. Este senin, cald si vantul abia adie. Pasari ciripesc pretutindeni, este multa vegetatie de un verde crud. Suntem foarte incantati de tot ce vedem si auzim. Panta este domoala la inceput; urcam nerabdatori. Se vede bine poteca pe care trebuie sa o urmam. Urcam greu, incercam sa ne reglam respiratia; muschii trebuie sa-si aminteasca ce inseamna solicitarea la efort. Avem doi ani de cand nu am mai urcat un munte serios. Ajungem langa un aven format in roca vulcanica; este si un izvor. E bine de stiut, la intoarcere ne vom bucura de el. Facem cateva fotografii si ne continuam drumul. Panta se accentueaza si noi micsoram ritmul. Tinerii montaniarzi ne ajung din urma. La un popas ne fotografiem reciproc. Ei o iau inainte. Sunt bine echipati: au bocanci si rucsaci. La rucsacul fetei vad la un buzunar doar un bidonas de jumatate de l de apa. Are in schimb Lonely Planet cu Azore. Din vale mai vine o pereche de montaniarzi. Panta devine din ce in ce mai abrupta. Ne ajunge si cea de-a doua pereche. Ne intalnim cu toti la un popas. Sunt germani, noii excursionisti sunt cam de varsta noastra. Ne-au depasit si acestia. Dupa o ora de urcus respiratia se regleaza, muschii se adapteaza la efort; facem opriri mai rare. Ajungem grupul de nemti care au inceput sa faca pauze mai dese. Ii depasim la un popas, noi nu ne mai oprim. Urcam sustinut aproape jumatate de ora fara pauza. Ne oprim pentru cinci minute, mancam cate un Snickers, bomboane, bem multa apa si plecam mai departe. Fata de alti vulcani aici nu este multa zgura si nu ne aluneca picioarele. Se merge bine. Traseul este marcat, nu este nicio problema cu orientarea. Sub 1000 de m altitudine, cat vezi cu ochii sunt nori, o mare alpina deasupra oceanului Atlantic.

Dupa altitudinea de 2000 de m incepem sa facem pauze scurte de cate doua minute. Simt inima cum bate aritmic si trebuie sa ma opresc sa-mi reglez atat ritmul cardiac cat si respiratia. Daca ma aplec si ma ridic brusc ametesc. Sunt aceleasi simptome pe care le aveam la peste 3000 de m altitudine. Ajungem la baza de sus a craterului. Evident ca ne mai asteapta un mot de circa 100 de m diferenta de nivel; e destul de abrupt.

Pana la el mergem pe marginea craterului spre dreapta. Ocolesc motul si caut o posibila cale de a-l escalada ca sa fie mai usor, roca sa fie mai compacta. Ajungem in partea de est a varfului si incepem sa urcam. Este destul de abrupt si trebuie sa folosim si prizele de mana. Sunt atent la stancile si bolovanii care se misca. Catalina ma urmeaza incet, este obosita si stresata de ultima portiune de escalada. Nu e prima data. O incurajez si o ajut in pasajele grele. Culmea este ca suntem la 2300 de m altitudine si avem primele simptome de rau de altitudine. Nororc ca mai avem putin de urcat. Printre fisuri vad aburii cum ies din vulcan. Este activ, fumega. Ajungem pe varf, este ora 14.45, suntem la 2351 m altitudine. Peisajul este spectaculos. Se vede craterul iar in jur, cat vezi cu ochii, mare alpina. Datorita vaporilor care ies stancile sunt calde. Roiuri de musculite ne impresoara , se aseaza pe fata, ne intra in ochi. Facem fotografiile de varf si filmam. Suntem bucurosi ca am reusit sa facem acest varf chiar daca are numai 2351 de m. Ascensiunea a durat 5 ore jumatate. Nu cred ca au mai urcat romani pe acest munte. Putem considera ascensiunea premiera romaneasca pe cel mai inalt munte din Azore si din Porugalia continentala.

Caldura degajata de vapori si musculitele nesuferite ne obliga sa coboram. Urmam un alt traseu, mai abrupt si cu mult grohotis. Coboram cu atentie, unele pasaje le descataram. Prizele sunt bune, roca este aderenta. Ajungem fara probleme pe platou. Ne adapostim dupa niste stanci aranjate ca un zid de protectie pentru corturi. Servim pranzul la crater verde: chifle cu pateu romanesc. Bem multa apa si apoi incepem coborarea. Ceilalti turisti nu au mai aparut. Poate au renuntat.

  Abia la coborare ne dam seama cat de mult am urcat. Vedem doi care urca: este o tipa cu un ghid local. Pe masura ce coboram incep sa ne doara genunchii. Vechile probleme reapar accentuate si de lipsa de antrenament. Ajung la izvor, ma spal pana la jumatate si umplu bidonul cu apa. De la acest nivel ceata ne invaluie. Urca mai multe grupuri de tineri cu un ghid. Vor urca pe seara ca sa vada apusul si apoi rasaritul. Daca vor avea noroc de vizibilitate. Ultima portiune o parcurgem pe ceata. La ora 17 ajungem la sosea. Dam un bip taximetristului. Speram sa nu ne uite aici. Nu e nici tipenie. Ne descaltam de cizmele de vulcanologi, ne spalam cu apa de la izvor si ne schimbam incaltamintea. Suntem iar pantofari. Suntem rupti de oboseala dar multumiti. Ajunge si Jose, taximetristul nostru. Peisajul era invaluit in ceata. Ajungem in Madalena si il rugam pe Jose sa ne lase la un supermarket. Il intrebam de vinuri. Insula Pico este renumita in productia de vinuri. Omul se da jos din masina si vine cu noi in magazin. A urmat apoi o scurta lectie despre vinuri si mancaruri asortate. Nu stiam cum sa-i mai multumim de amabilitatea de care a dat dovada. Facem cumparaturile si o luam incet spre port. Gasim un chiosc cu inghetata. Cumparam doua inghetate uriase cu tot felul de bunatati, alune, piscotele, la un pret derizoriu. Stam pe o bordura si savuram bunatatile. Pana la feri mai avem de asteptat o ora. Mergem la o terasa si comandam doua beri. Stam pe niste fotolii confortabile si bem berea indiferenti la meciul de cupa mondiala care este transmis pe un ecran mare. Nici nu tresarim cand italienii egaleaza in meciul cu Paraguay si cand toti spectatorii sar in sus tipand de bucurie. Meciul nostru s-a incheiat la baza vulcanului Pico. Suntem fericiti ca am reusit sa urcam pe un munte. Cum zice si Catalina: ne place marea dar si muntele; aici am reusit sa le facem pe-amandoua. La ora 20.45 plecam spre Horta. Dupa ce am ajuns la barca ne-am dezechipat si am mers la dus desi nu prea mai aveam chef. Dupa baie am baut un pahar de vin din noua recolta si am picat ca de pe Pico. Speram sa mai cucerim si alti vulcani in calitate de navigatori. Ne vom ura de-acum: vulcan bun din pupa!

iulie 24, 2009

Partea I – Romania – Franta

Plecarea din Romania – Constanta, Portul Tomis

  • Bulgaria: Portul Varna – Portul Nesebar
  • Turcia: Strâmtoarea Bosfor – Istambul – Marea Marmara
  • Grecia: Pireaus – Arhipelagul Ciclade – Insula Creta
  • Egipt: Canalul Suez
  • Arabia Saudita: Arhipeleagul Seiharat – Marea Mediterana
  • Libia: Bir Sanje
  • Tunisia: Bizerta

 

Partea a II a – Franta – Tara de Foc

Plecarea din Franta – Marsilia

  • Spania: Arhipelagul Baleare – Portul Alicante – Portul Estepona – Portul Gibraltar – Portul Tarifa – Insule Canare
  • Maroc: Tanger – Casablanca
  • Capul Verde: Mindelo – Sao Antao – Sao Vicente – Sao Nicolau – Sao Tiago
  • Brazilia: Pernambuco – Rio de Janeiro – Insula Santa Catarina
  • Uruguay: Montevideo
  • Argentina: Buenos Aires – Mar del Plata – Bahia Blanca- Rio Gallegos

 

Partea a III a – Spre casa

Intoarcerea in Romania din Tara de Foc se va desfasura pe ruta marelui navigator Magellan, primul om care a inconjurat pamantul. Traseul va cuprinde:

  • Oceanul Pacific
  • Insula Robinson Crusoe
  • Arhipeleagul Galapagos
  • Insulele Marchize
  • Insulele Societăţii
  • Arhipelagurile Tonga si Fiji
  • Noua Caledonie
  • Australia

Va urma traversarea Oceanului Indian, Insula Reunion, traversarea Oceanului Atlantic, strâmtoarea Gibraltar, Marea Mediterană, Marea Neagra, si intoarcerea in portul Constanta.

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iulie 24, 2009

Marius Albu, capitan

51 ani, Speolog, Alpinst, Navigator

  • Primul roman care a realizat inconjurul lumii cu un velier sub pavilion romanesc
  • Premiera romaneasca pe cel mai inalt vulcan activ din lume, Ojos del Salado 6893 m
  • Escaladarea celui mai inalt varf din America, Aconcagua, 6962 m
  • Escaladarea varfurilor Mont Blanc 4874 m, Matterhorn 4480 m, Duffourspitze 4634 m
  • Fondatorul clubului de speologie “Carst”
  • Membru fondator al clubului Explorer

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iulie 24, 2009

Catalina Albu, crew

46 ani, Alpinist, Navigator

  • A traversat Marea Caraibilor – 1200 mile marine cu un veliere
  • A navigat din Australia pana in Noua Caledonie si retur – 2000 mile marine
  • A navigat din Australia pana in Romania – 9500 mile marine
  • Premiera romaneasca pe cel mai inalt vulcan activ din lume – Ojos del Salado 6893 m
  • Cel mai inalt varf din America de Nord si de Sud – Aconcagua 6962 m
  • Membru fondator al clubului Explorer

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